To install under-cabinet lighting, choose your fixture type, measure the run, and mount the lights to the underside front edge of the cabinets. Plug-in versions simply connect to an outlet; hardwired versions tie into a switched circuit. Most kitchens use LED strips or bars linked together and controlled by one switch or dimmer.
Plan before you buy
Good under-cabinet lighting starts with a quick plan. Measure the length of each cabinet run so you can buy enough fixtures or strip to cover most of each cabinet's length. Decide how you will power the system, the biggest fork in the project:
- Plug-in: Fixtures connect to each other and end in a cord that reaches a countertop outlet. No electrician needed, fully DIY, but a cord is visible near the outlet.
- Hardwired: Fixtures tie into your home's wiring and a wall switch, hiding all cords for a built-in look. This usually calls for a licensed electrician.
Tools and materials
- Under-cabinet LED strips, bars, or pucks
- Connectors, and a power supply or driver if required
- Screwdriver and a drill with small bits
- Tape measure and pencil
- Painter's tape and a clean cloth for adhesive strips
- Voltage tester for any hardwired work
Step-by-step installation
1. Turn off power. For any hardwired connection, switch off the breaker to the circuit and confirm it is dead with a voltage tester. For plug-in kits, simply leave them unplugged until the end.
2. Dry-fit the layout. Lay the fixtures on the counter in the order they will connect. Confirm the run length, plan where cords or the power feed will exit, and note where each fixture links to the next.
3. Clean and mark. Wipe the underside of the cabinets so adhesive and screws hold well. Position fixtures toward the front edge of the cabinet underside; this pushes light onto the countertop and reduces glare reflecting off the backsplash. Mark screw holes or adhesive lines with a pencil.
4. Mount the fixtures. For screw-mount bars and pucks, drill pilot holes and drive the screws. For adhesive strip, peel and press firmly along your marked line, working slowly to keep it straight. Many strips also include mounting clips for a more secure hold.
5. Connect the fixtures. Link bars or strips with the supplied connectors or short jumper cables, hiding wires in the recess under the cabinet face frame. Keep connections tucked up and out of sight.
6. Power it up. Plug in the kit, or, for hardwired systems, have the feed connected to the switched circuit. Test every fixture and dimmer before final cleanup.
7. Tidy the wiring. Use adhesive clips or channels to route any visible cord neatly along the cabinet bottom toward the outlet or power source.
Placement tips that make a difference
- Front, not back. Mounting toward the front edge lights the work surface; mounting at the back lights the backsplash and can glare off glossy tile.
- Hide the source. A small light rail or valance under the cabinet lip hides the fixtures from view when you are standing.
- Overlap the light. Space bars or pucks so their beams overlap slightly, avoiding dark gaps and hot spots on the counter.
- Add a dimmer. A dimmable driver or switch lets the same lights serve bright task work and soft nighttime ambiance.
Plug-in vs hardwired, in brief
Plug-in is the fast, renter-friendly path and needs no electrical work; the trade-off is a visible cord near an outlet. Hardwired delivers the cleanest look and wall-switch control but means working inside the wall. If you want hardwired power and are not fully confident, this is the point to bring in a pro.
Electrical safety
Hardwiring under-cabinet lights means tapping into a circuit, often near a sink where water is present. Turn off power at the breaker, verify with a tester, and follow local code for kitchen circuits. New circuits, new switches, or any connection you are unsure about should be handled by a licensed electrician. This guide is general information only and does not replace a licensed electrician.
